Cyclone Evan

It has been very rainy and blustery in New Zealand the past few days as the remains of Cyclone Evan have been blowing over. Evan devastated Samoa and Fiji before making its way down to New Zealand, where it hasn’t caused much significant damage, other than some rain and bad weather.

We had just visited Samoa back in September and had a wonderful time staying at Aggie Grey’s Hotel in Apia. This iconic hotel was founded in 1933 and was featured in James Mitchner’s “Tales of the South Pacific.” Marlon Brando stayed at the hotel and there was a bungalow bearing his name there. Robert Louis Stevenson had immigrated to Samoa, but he died before the hotel was built, in 1894. There is a RLS museum in Samoa.

It is shocking to now read about the damage Samoa and Aggie Grey’s has suffered. According to the Samoa Observer, Aggie’s is the second largest employer in Samoa (around 1000 people) and there is some question whether the hotel will be rebuilt. The storm destroyed much of the area where we daily dined, although the room we stayed in on the second floor may not have been directly damaged by the six foot flood waters.

Since coming to New Zealand, this is the second natural disaster that has struck somewhere we visited in the past few months as we had been down to the South Island of New Zealand to Christchurch about a week and a half before the second earthquake in February. We had walked through the square and taken photos with the cathedral in the background, however after the quake, the cathedral was destroyed.

Here are some photos that show Aggie Grey’s from our visit there in September:

Aggie Grey's Lobby

Aggie Grey’s Lobby

View from the dining room near the pool.

View from the dining room near the pool.

Me in front of Aggie Grey's

Me in front of Aggie Grey’s

A cat that staked out this chair the whole time of our visit

A cat that staked out this chair the whole time of our visit

View of Aggie Grey's looking West. This river flooded and brought six feet of water and silt into Aggie Grey's. Hotel guests went up to the 3rd floor to escape the flood waters.

View of Aggie Grey’s looking West. This river flooded and brought six feet of water and silt into Aggie Grey’s. Hotel guests went up to the 3rd floor to escape the flood waters.

The pool filled with mud when the river overflowed.

The pool filled with mud when the river overflowed.

The cafe at street level

The cafe at street level

cyclone-evan-samoa-dining-room
Cyclone Evan
The Marlon Brando Fale (not Marlon Brando in the photo!)

The Marlon Brando Fale (not Marlon Brando in the photo!)

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, ‘Upolu, Samoa

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

About a 10 minute walk from our hotel in Apia, was Palolo Deep Marine Reserve. I went snorkeling every day and just loved it!

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

One of the things that I loved, aside from everything, was floating and staying still while these schools of little blue fish swarmed all around me. These little guys were generally out at the edge of the reef as it dropped down into deeper water. I tried taking several movies and photos of these fish, but that experience remains one of the most powerful and one of the most difficult to capture in images.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

All my life I have had dreams about aquariums. Often, they would be neglected, I would have forgotten that I had them, sometimes the fish might even have gotten out of the tank and I would have to put them back, care for the tank and try to remember to take care of all these wonderful and strange creatures. I always imagined that these dreams represented finding lost or forgotten aspects of myself. I always had an exhilarated feeling of excitement that overpowered the feelings of guilt that I had neglected these animals in the dream.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

After a few days of snorkeling, I started trying to figure out, in words, what it was I enjoyed so much about it.  Definitely there was the adventure, the excitement, of finding strange and beautiful creatures. There was a feeling of danger and fear, of what I might find that I didn’t want to find, e.g. a shark or a rip tide. There was also a feeling of having to be deeply in flow and harmony with the currents, the reef, and the fish as I navigated through, at times shallow waters without much maneuvering room, and other times, very ample space, too much space, as I worked to not drift out into the deep unknown and stay close to the edge of the reef. I noticed how the fish reacted to me.  Some quite curious like the little blue and the blue and black fish, others quite shy and difficult to photograph, like the parrot fish and some sort of long-nosed fish that always seemed to scoot away when I tried to get a good photo.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

Eventually, I started to think about snorkeling as a trip into the unconscious, much like my recurrent dreams of aquaria. Peaceful and exhiliarating at the same time.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

And for some reason, floating in the midst of a school of little bright, blue fish was one of the most fantastic experiences in the water. Like so many sparkling thoughts and ideas with my ego balancing and buoyed in the midst of all this activity. There was always more than I could consciously take in, more than I could see, always one more surprise, one more amazing fish, one more amazing underwater vista or panorama, continuously unfolding around me as the current pulled and tugged me one way then another.

“The sea is like music; it has all the dreams of the soul within itself and sounds them over. The beauty and grandeur of the sea consists in our being forced down into the fruitful bottomlands of our own psyches, where we confront and re-create ourselves,”

(C.G. Jung, p. 47, Carl Jung:  Wounded Healer of the Soul, by Claire Dunne)

Samoa

Here are a few photos from our recent trip to Samoa. Samoa is about 3.5 hour flight from Auckland, and the population of the two large islands is about 180,000. We stayed mostly around Apia, the largest town, on the island of ‘Upolu. We drove out to Lalomanu on the Southeastern tip of ‘Upolu, went for a swim and snorkel, and then drove back up the Cross Island Road. We stopped at a few waterfalls along the way…

Samoa

Samoa

Samoa

Orchids at the Piula Cave Pool

Samoa

Samoa

Samoa

Samoa

Samoa
Fuipisia Falls
Samoa
Samoa