Great Barrier Reef (2)

Some of the dive sites were at places called “bommies,” which were pinnacles of rock in the middle of deeper water. Some of these weren’t so great for snorkeling as far as seeing the surface of the bommie. However, there were masses of schooling fish that I delighted in swimming with, surrounded by zipping colours.

Schooling Fish

Schooling Fish

Close-up of Red-bellied Fusilier

Close-up of Red-bellied Fusilier

Red-bellied Fusilier Schooling

Red-bellied Fusilier Schooling

I swam for hours in these swarms of fish as they swarmed and then would suddenly dash for deeper water (a few times I saw circling barracudas, but many times I could not tell why the sudden dash for the deep). It was a very strange feeling to be completely surrounded by these teeming fish and then suddenly to be all alone in deep water – where I couldn’t see the bottom and I couldn’t see another living creature. Soon enough, though, the swarms of fish would come back up and begin zipping about again. Each site was a little different as far as which fish would be schooling closer to the surface and how intermingled the schools were. The yellow-finned fish always seemed to be closest to the surface. The striped blue fish always schooled with them, but a little deeper. The Unicorn Fish were generally deeper yet, but at one site they were coming to the top and I ended up swimming alongside them.

Schooling Fish with Diver

Schooling Fish with Diver

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Unicorn Fish Schooling

Unicorn Fish Schooling

I could have just stayed there, gently swimming in these swarms of fish forever. It was just like a dream! It is hard to describe how peaceful the feeling was and the photos just can’t capture the three dimensional experience of it!

Schooling Fish with Diver's Bubbles

 
Schooling Fish with Diver’s Bubbles

Great Barrier Reef!!! (1)

Reef from Above

Reef from Above

I had a great time out on the Reef. I did a 3 night live aboard trip with a flight out to Lizard Island to start with, and then a cruise back along the Reef toward Cairns. The flight was a nice way to get an overview of the Reef. Also, all the dive sites were more than 100 kilometers from Cairns, which is a good thing because a lot of the Reef is getting damaged from high density tourist use. A number of things I read were quite pessimistic about the future of this massive reef system that runs all the way up into Indonesia. The tour I went on was very aware of the need to make efforts to preserve the Reef.

Flying in Formation over the Reef

 
Flying in Formation over the Reef
On Approach to Lizard Island

On Approach to Lizard Island

Spoilsport, our home for 3 nights

Spoilsport, our home for 3 nights

I did my PADI certification for scuba back in Auckland a few weeks ago. I had difficulty equalizing the pressure in my ears and had some fluid in my ears after that (four flights in a week with pressure changes highlighted that I still had some problems with equalization), so I ended up snorkeling the whole time. Of the 12 dives, there was only one that I was somewhat disappointed that I wasn’t able to go under water.

Parrot Fish with Remora

Parrot Fish with Remora

Reef View

Reef View

Every time I went out, I saw more and more amazing things, the kind of things you generally only see in books or documentaries…

Unicorn Fish Close-up

Unicorn Fish Close-up

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Puffer Fish

Puffer Fish

Green Sea Turtle

Green Sea Turtle

Trigger Fish

Trigger Fish

I’ll post some more photos in another blog…

Cairns, Australia

Shell Statue Cairns  waterfront

I decided to take a week off and head North into tropical Queensland to the town of Cairns. Cairns is one of the major jumping off points for the Great Barrier Reef as well as for excursions further North into the Daintree Rainforest. Cairns waterfront is very touristy and the beach is not very swimmable, as it is muddy. But it is a great place to head out to the Reef from. I also love anywhere that you can see wild parrots zipping about. In fact, there were quite a few interesting birds around town and on the waterfront.

parrot

I liked the botanical gardens better than the Brisbane gardens. There is a boardwalk through the wetlands (although it was quite dry during the whole trip and the stream beds were dry).

Leaf, Botanical Gardens

Ginger, Botanical Gardens

I took a couple of day trips out of Cairns and will blog about those later. There are a lot of shops and restaurants in Cairns, but for me, it worked best as a base for other activities in the area. Wifi was a little tough to come by and not many of the cafés had it available.

singing bird, Botanical Gardens

Flowering Shrub, Botanical Gardens

The weather was great while I was here, 30 degrees Celsius and sunny. A nice breeze today near the ocean as I sit drinking coffee and watching the various birds cavort about in the flowering trees.

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Bird at waterfront

More Ginger, Botanical Gardens

Into the Heart of Darkness

(This post is something I started working on earlier in the year while I was on holiday in Melbourne, it is fitting to post it now as I am just announcing my departure from New Zealand, which is part of the topic of this post).

I haven’t posted much lately, I have been working “full on,” as they say in New Zealand, on my book. I’ll post with an update on that at a later point.  I am just getting to edit some photos from a trip to Nikau Caves back in November. It was my second time at the caves which are down near Port Waikato. It is about a 1-2 hour tour that is mostly walking, but has one place where you have to let yourself down through a keyhole and then crawl on hands and knees through a stream for a bit. I am not a fan of tight spaces, but I challenged myself a few years back to go to Mammoth Caves in Kentucky, and I found to my surprise, that I actually quite like caves. It is an exhilarating adventure to enter into the darkness, to smell the damp, cool air, to get wet and grimy and then come out the other side into the light again.

Dave at Nikau Cave

Dave at Nikau Cave

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The Heart of Darkness is a novella by Joseph Conrad. Conrad was a Polish sailor, adventurer and writer. He, himself, travelled into central Africa. The book is a story of one man, Kurtz, who years back ventured into the heart of Africa. There, something happened. You could consider it that he went “native,” but it is not fair to the place or the “natives” to blame them for the transformation. The book is also about the inner journey as much as the outer journey. You cannot really have one without the other, can you? Every outer journey is also an inner journey. Kurtz came to something dark within himself. The narrator, sent to find Kurtz represents the innocent explorer and Kurtz represents the one who has been over-powered by his own darkness.

The movie, “Apocalypse Now” is based on the Conrad’s novella, a book that is not long enough to be a novel, but too long to be a short story. In the movie, Martin Sheen’s character is the innocent sent to find Kurtz. Kurtz has created some kind of bizarre web around him. The darkness that is explored in the movie is the personal shadow that everyone has. It also represents the shadow side of the United States — a failed war that turned into an occupation that attempted to win over the “hearts and minds” of the “natives” and to build an (empire) of democracy. It is a war that led to a shift in consciousness in the American psyche. USA was not #1 and the line between “good guys” and “bad guys” started to become blurred.

While filming the movie, Martin Sheen — in reality — had a heart attack.

In Conrad’s book, there is a line:

“And this also has been one of the dark places of the earth.”

I made a painting years ago that had that quotation written along the bottom edge. That line always struck me. It is a complex sentence. There are several key words in that sentence. It starts with “and” as if there had already been an ongoing discussion of dark places. The word “also” implies that there are other dark places. The word “has” is a pivotal word for me, it implies the possibility of change. Therefore, darkness does not seem to be unchangeable, it is not unusual and in fact, it is to be expected, perhaps all places at some point on the earth are dark. Returning to the earlier statement — all outer journeys are also inner journeys —could lead us to say that all people, at one point in their lives on earth are also a dark place, while this is incredibly serious, it is by no means unusual, nor is it a permanent state.

And This Also Has Been One of the Dark Places of the Earth

And This Also Has Been One of the Dark Places of the Earth

In my painting, which I called “And this has also been one of the dark places of the earth,” there was a sort of abstract landscape — a pool, a tree, grassy banks, browns, greens, blues — and then there was also a squiggle of colors from a squeeze tube of paint — light blue and dark purple. Much to my consternation, this always looked to me like a nun, the Virgin Mary, or some other female, Christian icon. Yet that consternation was what I loved about the painting. The painting and the quote were about dark places, but also about that operative word, “has been,” implying the hope and potential for change. The visage of this benign presence keeping watch over the dark places seemed somehow appropriate.

The brighter the light that illuminates an object, the greater the shadow that is cast. Light and dark are inseparable aspects of the same thing. Every place that is illuminated has also been a dark place. Jung wrote that everyone has a shadow. Jung didn’t believe that it was possible to “get rid” of the shadow, although by venturing into it and developing a different relationship with it could lead to transformation. We need not be speaking of anything spiritual or supernatural here, this applies on a psychological and metaphorical level, although it could be argued that these are all aspects of the same process.

I woke up this morning (January 27, 2013) gradually working out this essay in my head. At the time of writing this, I am in Melbourne, Australia. Yesterday was Australia Day. I went snorkeling at Portsea Pier on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria. Water has also been one of my fears in life and there is some similarity between venturing into the darkness of a cave or the fluidness of the water and similar strange creatures and features exist in both places. I saw Weedy Sea Dragons, a giant sting ray, heaps of puffer fish and many jellyfish. We went to an aboriginal art show and then we went on a night tour at Moonlit Sanctuary, a great wildlife park where we saw all sorts of interesting animals — wallabies, kangaroos, a quoll, bettongs, barking owls and a sugar glider that climbed on my hand. All this ties together, the journeys in the dark, the art work, the outer/inner journey, the strange creatures and the heart.

At the aboriginal art show, we bought a beautiful painting of the Dream Sisters, two stylized figures leaning in with heads touching and a third thing/being created from the union of the two. The woman in charge of the show told us the story of how the figures represent watchful protection. She spoke about a mandala she has that is always the first thing to go up in her home and the last thing she takes down and how that makes her feel good in some way, not that she thinks there is some supernatural force or something, she said. I thought how cool that is, I wish I had something like that, then I remembered “And this also has been one of the dark places of the earth,” and I remembered how I had sold that painting prior to us moving to New Zealand. I remembered that with sadness, but also with the reality that you cannot have an adventure, particularly into darkness (which is where all real adventures into the unknown end up at some point) and be able to bring along everything that is a comfort to you. I also realized that we were just purchasing a painting that could serve that same purpose — in fact, the blue and purple outline of the female figure is somewhat similar to the Dream Sisters.

This morning, as I was waking up, I started to think about the move to New Zealand, wondering if that was a journey into the heart of darkness. I decided it was, particularly as I decided that all outer journeys are also inner journeys. I thought of Thoreau going to Walden and then of Thoreau leaving Walden. “I left the woods for as good a reason as I went there. Perhaps it seemed to me that I had several more lives to live, and could not spare any more time for that one.” I suppose I will say something similar when I leave New Zealand.

The question, “So why did you move to New Zealand?” is one I have been repeatedly asked and have repeatedly answered. For a change. To do something new. Because the life that we had was changing so much that it seemed like a good time to change our lives. I suppose the decision to move really had something to do with life and death. The old life seemed dead and I desperately needed to pump new life into myself. I needed to move, to travel, to see the world, to remind myself that I was part of the world and had a place in the world. It was all that much more painful when I realized that moving to another country is all about not having a place in the world. It is also about questioning who you really are and about what is really you, what is a conditioned cultural response from the country one lives in and what is a spontaneous expression of oneself. I went to New Zealand to see the world, to grow and to reconnect to myself. I am now in the process of leaving New Zealand for the same reasons.

This piece I am writing is really too long for a blog post, it is more of an essay, but I am going to post it as a blog post. I guess you could say it is a bl-essay. When I thought of that I had the sense the term is fitting as the idea of the watchful figure is like having a blessing, having a reminder that the dark places are temporary but necessary on the earth. Like Dante’s quote, “Midway upon the journey of our life, I found myself within a forest dark, For the straight forward pathway had been lost.” The darkness is necessary for the transformation that comes later. Life is created in the space between the contraction and relaxation of the heart.

A Literary Tour of St. Paul, Minnesota

I was recently in St. Paul, Minnesota to visit my sister, Karen, and to attend Integrity in Health Care: The Courage to Lead in a Changing Landscape, the second annual Courage & Renewal in Health Care Institute. A number of literary places and events clustered around the trip. One aspect of institute for me was a renewed interest in poetry, a sort of “return to poetry” for me. So I wanted to go to a bookstore and browse a bit. Karen and I ended up going to Common Good Books. Garison Keillor, host of Minnesota Public Radio’s “A Prairie Home Companion” is the proprietor of the book shop. In addition to his story-telling on the show, Keillor is also a lover of poetry and is the host of “The Writer’s Almanac” which is a short radio piece that tells a little about the lives of writers and often includes a poem.

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Common Good Books

Karen and I happened to see Keillor in a cafe we were working in. I spent a lot of time in St. Paul in cafes working on my Website which Karen is assisting on. I was reviewing and editing some of my poems to include on the Website when we realized Garison Keillor was in the room.

The other literary aspect of the visit was a trip to W.A. Frost a restaurant that was a neighborhood pharmacy and soda fountain when F. Scott Fitzgerald was living down the street in the Commodore Hotel. In his first novel, This Side of Paradise, Fitzgerald wrote, “Here was a new generation, . . . dedicated more than the last to the fear of poverty and the worship of success, grown up to find all Gods dead, all wars fought, all faiths in man shaken.”

W. A. Frost

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Stained Glass at W. A. Frost

After some time at W. A. Frost, we took a night walking tour of the neighborhood and walked past the Commodore Hotel, where Fitzgerald and Zelda lived and their son was born.

The Commodore

All in all it was a great trip to St. Paul and it was unexpected to have such literary stimulation there and to have my “return to poetry” strengthened. Now I am back in Auckland, working away still on the Website, my book, job interviews, my work as Clinical Director at the rehabilitation centre and my impending move back to the States.

A Portrait of the Author in His Auckland Study

 
A Portrait of the Author in His Auckland Study

Cyclone Evan

It has been very rainy and blustery in New Zealand the past few days as the remains of Cyclone Evan have been blowing over. Evan devastated Samoa and Fiji before making its way down to New Zealand, where it hasn’t caused much significant damage, other than some rain and bad weather.

We had just visited Samoa back in September and had a wonderful time staying at Aggie Grey’s Hotel in Apia. This iconic hotel was founded in 1933 and was featured in James Mitchner’s “Tales of the South Pacific.” Marlon Brando stayed at the hotel and there was a bungalow bearing his name there. Robert Louis Stevenson had immigrated to Samoa, but he died before the hotel was built, in 1894. There is a RLS museum in Samoa.

It is shocking to now read about the damage Samoa and Aggie Grey’s has suffered. According to the Samoa Observer, Aggie’s is the second largest employer in Samoa (around 1000 people) and there is some question whether the hotel will be rebuilt. The storm destroyed much of the area where we daily dined, although the room we stayed in on the second floor may not have been directly damaged by the six foot flood waters.

Since coming to New Zealand, this is the second natural disaster that has struck somewhere we visited in the past few months as we had been down to the South Island of New Zealand to Christchurch about a week and a half before the second earthquake in February. We had walked through the square and taken photos with the cathedral in the background, however after the quake, the cathedral was destroyed.

Here are some photos that show Aggie Grey’s from our visit there in September:

Aggie Grey's Lobby

Aggie Grey’s Lobby

View from the dining room near the pool.

View from the dining room near the pool.

Me in front of Aggie Grey's

Me in front of Aggie Grey’s

A cat that staked out this chair the whole time of our visit

A cat that staked out this chair the whole time of our visit

View of Aggie Grey's looking West. This river flooded and brought six feet of water and silt into Aggie Grey's. Hotel guests went up to the 3rd floor to escape the flood waters.

View of Aggie Grey’s looking West. This river flooded and brought six feet of water and silt into Aggie Grey’s. Hotel guests went up to the 3rd floor to escape the flood waters.

The pool filled with mud when the river overflowed.

The pool filled with mud when the river overflowed.

The cafe at street level

The cafe at street level

cyclone-evan-samoa-dining-room
Cyclone Evan
The Marlon Brando Fale (not Marlon Brando in the photo!)

The Marlon Brando Fale (not Marlon Brando in the photo!)

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

We went on a whale and dolphin trip this weekend and it was one of the best yet!

gannets.jpg

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

We saw swarms of sea birds in a feeding frenzy with many dolphins and several Bryde’s Whales.

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

Later, we ran across a pod of Bottle Nose Dolphins that were very acrobatic.  One gave us a show of several belly flops in front of the boat.

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

Whale and Dolphin Watching in the Hauraki Gulf

I have to admit, I didn’t take this last photo…I saw the dolphins do the three way jump, three times, but missed the shot. This photo was taken by the photographer on the boat.

A Trip to Karekare

We took a drive out to the West Coast beach, Karekare, this past weekend. It is one of the black sand beaches and it has quite an expanse of sand at low tide.

A Trip to Karekare

We walked along the beach for awhile and then I climbed up the trail toward Cave Rock and was rewarded with a great view of the waterfall across the road.

A Trip to Karekare

A Trip to Karekare
A Trip to Karekare

I took a lot of photos over the past month as we had a visitor and went on a number of trips around Auckland. Hopefully I’ll get those photos edited and post a few soon!

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, ‘Upolu, Samoa

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

About a 10 minute walk from our hotel in Apia, was Palolo Deep Marine Reserve. I went snorkeling every day and just loved it!

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

One of the things that I loved, aside from everything, was floating and staying still while these schools of little blue fish swarmed all around me. These little guys were generally out at the edge of the reef as it dropped down into deeper water. I tried taking several movies and photos of these fish, but that experience remains one of the most powerful and one of the most difficult to capture in images.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

All my life I have had dreams about aquariums. Often, they would be neglected, I would have forgotten that I had them, sometimes the fish might even have gotten out of the tank and I would have to put them back, care for the tank and try to remember to take care of all these wonderful and strange creatures. I always imagined that these dreams represented finding lost or forgotten aspects of myself. I always had an exhilarated feeling of excitement that overpowered the feelings of guilt that I had neglected these animals in the dream.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

After a few days of snorkeling, I started trying to figure out, in words, what it was I enjoyed so much about it.  Definitely there was the adventure, the excitement, of finding strange and beautiful creatures. There was a feeling of danger and fear, of what I might find that I didn’t want to find, e.g. a shark or a rip tide. There was also a feeling of having to be deeply in flow and harmony with the currents, the reef, and the fish as I navigated through, at times shallow waters without much maneuvering room, and other times, very ample space, too much space, as I worked to not drift out into the deep unknown and stay close to the edge of the reef. I noticed how the fish reacted to me.  Some quite curious like the little blue and the blue and black fish, others quite shy and difficult to photograph, like the parrot fish and some sort of long-nosed fish that always seemed to scoot away when I tried to get a good photo.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

Eventually, I started to think about snorkeling as a trip into the unconscious, much like my recurrent dreams of aquaria. Peaceful and exhiliarating at the same time.

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

Palolo Marine Reserve, Apia, 'Upolu, Samoa

And for some reason, floating in the midst of a school of little bright, blue fish was one of the most fantastic experiences in the water. Like so many sparkling thoughts and ideas with my ego balancing and buoyed in the midst of all this activity. There was always more than I could consciously take in, more than I could see, always one more surprise, one more amazing fish, one more amazing underwater vista or panorama, continuously unfolding around me as the current pulled and tugged me one way then another.

“The sea is like music; it has all the dreams of the soul within itself and sounds them over. The beauty and grandeur of the sea consists in our being forced down into the fruitful bottomlands of our own psyches, where we confront and re-create ourselves,”

(C.G. Jung, p. 47, Carl Jung:  Wounded Healer of the Soul, by Claire Dunne)